Buttonhole-sewing machine.



J. FORMAN. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

. APPLICATION FILED MAY 18, 1916; 1,269,,1 6., Patented June 11, 1918.

I5 SHEETS-SHEET l.

. wiwm/boz witness akin-war 1. FORMAN.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

, vwewto z wane so 1. FORMAN. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 18, 1916' 1,2369,1 Patented June 11, 1918.

15 SHEETS-SHEET 3- J. FORMAN. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAYI8.19I 6- v 1,269,160 Patented Junell, 1918.

15 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

5141mm to t ax I1 w J, FORIVIAN.

NONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAVIB. 191s.

Patented June 11, 1918.

15 SHEETSSHEET 5.

J. FORK/IAN. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

M Q. J.

1s SHEETS-SHEET 6.

Patented J 11116 11, 1918.

J. FORMAN. BUTTQNHOLE SEWING-MAEHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 18. I916- Patented J u-ne 11. 1918.

15 SHEETS-SHEE] Z- TIE CI i

I. FORMAN.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHlNE.

' APPLICATION FILED MAY 13. l9l6- 1269,41 6 Patented June 11, 1918 I5 SHEETS-SHEET 8.

J. F'ORMAN. BUTTONH'OLYE SEWING MACHINE.

- APPLICATION FILED MAY 18. I916. LQWAl 6o Patented June 11. 1918.

1.5 SHEETS-SHEET 9.

' J1%m E awvawtoz /vi/bmeoam? ov/MW l. FORMAN. 'BUTTONHOL'E SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION F ILED MAY 18. 1916.

Patented June 11, 1918.

15 SHEETSSHEET I0- zllgsm E E mica 41 e13 J. FORMAN. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE APPLICATIQN FILED MAY L8. 1916- 1 ,269,41 6., w Patented June 11, 1918.

Q E-Q MA 1. FORMAN. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATIQN FILED MAY l. I916.

PatentedJulie 11. 1918.

15 SHEETS-SHEET 12' 1. FORMAN. I BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

. APPLICATION HL'ED MAYIB. 1916. 1,269,41

Patnted Jim: 11. 1918.

I5 SHEETS-SHEET 13- I. FORMAN. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY L8. 1916..

Patented June 11, 1918.

15 SHEETS -SHEET I4.

1. FORMAN. BUTTONHO-LE SEWING MACHINE.

1,269,}. APPLICATIYOVN FILED MAY 1a. 1916. Patented-J1me n 1918.

15 SHEETS-SHEET l5.

ann

crosnrirronivinn, or WALEBROOK, MARYLAND.

BUTTONHOLE-SEWING MACHINE.

. Specification of Letters Patent.

Patentedqlune JLLIWLF.

Application filed May 18, 1916. Serial N 0. 98,411.

To all whom it may concern: 1

Be it known that LJosnrnFoinvrAN, a citizen-of the-United States, resldingflat VValbrook, State of Maryland, have lnvented certain new and useful Improvements in Buttonhole-Sewing Machines; and I do deingmachines and more particularly to the type designed for: producing. buttonholes having ran 1 eye at gone end thereof. k

The main object of the inventionis to provide a siinplyconstructed machine of' this characteremploying a single threadi and forming a stitch identical with the buttonhole stitch made by hand and which may be operated by unskilled workmen, the present invention being animprovement on the machine shown and-described inmy copending' application, SerialNo. 29372, filed May '20, 1915.

Another object is to'provide improved meansjfor gripping. and releasing; the needle and for transferring it from one needle bar; to the other.

Another object is-to provide simple and efficient means for reciprocatingtthe needle bars.

Still another object is to provide an inn proved thread tightening and tensionmecha anism for coming entangled during; :the operation of the machine and which is so constructed that all danger of thereby is avoided. I

Still another object'sis :to provide an im-' proved rstitch setting. mechanism. r

the thread being broken With these and other objects inview, the

invention consists of certain novel features of construction and the combination and:

arrangement of parts as will be hereinafter. more fully described and claimed.

In; the accompanying drawings: Figure 1 represents a side elevation of a machine constructed in accordance with this invention,-the worlc table thereof being shown-in section; jj j j i Fig.2 is a centralnlongitudinal vertica-lw section thereof; 4 Fig. -3 is a front elevation thereof with the parts shown in the position assumed when transferring a needle fromthe upper needle bar tothe lower;

preventing thethread :from beviewpartly in section showing the connection of the jaws with the needle bar;

Fig. 10 is a side elevation taken in a plane at right angles to Fig. 7 g

Fig. .11 is a vertical section takenon the line 11-11 of Fig. 81 I Fig. 12 is an edge, view and'a front elevation respectively of one of the-needle gripping jaws Fig. 13 is a similar view of the other jaw;

Fig. 14: is a horizontal section taken on the line-l414 of Fig. 7 V

Fig. 15 is a similar view taken" on the line 1515 'of Fig. 8;

Fig. 16 is an enlarged detail plan view of the loopers shown in closed positi'on'and with the actuating lei er thereof broken ofl Fig.1? is a similar view jaws shown in open position;

Fig. 18 a similar view partly insection; Fig. 19 is a longitudinal section taken on the line 19-19 of 16;"

Fig. 20 is a front elevation of thelo'opers shown in closed position;

Fig. 21. is a transverse section takenon the line 2121 of Fig. 18; f

Fig-22 is a horizontal section taken on the line 22-22% Fi 20; F ig. 23 is a fragmentary plan view of the work table partly in section and with the cloth plate removed to disclose the location of the feed wheel;

Fig. 24 is ahorizontal section taken substantially on the line 2424 of Fig. l and i directly 'underthe work table;

Fig. 25jis a similar view taken on the line 25525 of Fig. l;

Fig.26 is adeta-il horizontal. section taken 8 1s a side elevation with the front with the looper.

view showing the stitch forming mechanism in the position assumed at the completion of a buttonhole;

Fig. 29 is a similar view showing the needle in the act of ascending;

Fig. 30 is a similar view showing the needle passing downwardly through the cloth and ready to enter between the loopers;

Fig. 31 is a similar view showing the needle after it is passed through the cloth and with the tension device ready for operation;

Fig. 32 is a similar view showing the tightening device in its outward movement for tightening the thread and engaging it with the tension or thread holding device;

Fig. 33 is a plan view showing the cloth clamped in operative position with a piece of cloth clamped thereby and with the buttonhole formed therein stretched ready to be stitched;

Fig. 33 is an enlarged detail of the cloth having the buttonhole cut ready for stitch- 3;

Fig. 34 shows a View similar to Fig. 33 with the clamp omitted with the exception of its pin which is shown in section;

Fig. 35 is a view similar to Fig. 33 with thecloth plate removed to show the arrangement of the feed wheel;

Fig. 36 is a view similar to Fig. 34 with the feed wheel in the position which it oc cupies after completing one-eighth of a revo lution;

Fig. 36 represents a plan view of a buttonhole showing the stitches formed during the one-eighth revolution of the feed wheel;

buttonhole Fig. 37 is a view similar to Fig. 34 showing the position of the parts after the feed wheel has completed one-fourth of its revolution and preparatory to the formation of the eye;

Fig. 37 a shows a buttonhole with one side edge thereof completed ready for the formation of the eye;

Fig. 38 is a view similar to Fig. 34 showing the position of the parts during the formation of the first half of the eye of the buttonhole;

Fig. 39 shows a similar view to Fig. 38 with the cloth clamp in position;

Fig. 39 is a detail plan view of the buttonhole with one-half thereof completed;

Fig. 40 is a plan view with the clamp removed, showing the parts in the position assumed on the completion of the eye of the Fig. 40 shows the buttonhole with one side thereof and the eye completed;

Fig. 41 is a plan view with the clamp applied and theparts in the position assumed during the formation of the first half of the second straight stretch of the buttonhole;

Fig. 41 shows the buttonhole three-fourths completed;

Fig. 46 is a transverse vertical section on an enlarged scale showing more particularly the pivotal arrangement of the feed wheel;

the cutting die and the cloth clamp, the latter being in the position assumed ready for the cutting of the buttonhole;

Fig. 47 shows a fragmentary transverse section with the cutting mechanism in operative position for forming the buttonhole;

Fig. 48 is a view similar to Fig. 46 with the cloth clamp moved forward ready for the initial step in the formation of the but tonhole;

Fig. 49 is an enlarged detail vertical section showing the friction engaging devices of the operating means for the tension device;

Fig. 50 is a detail fragmentary vertical sectional view of a portion of the work table, showing more particularly the arrangement of the stitch setting finger; i

Fig. 51 is a detail transverse section on the line 51-51 of Fig. 24;

Fig. 52 is a detail transverse vertical section on the line 52-52 of Fig. 24.

In the embodiment illustrated this improved machine is shown mounted in a sup porting structure comprising angle iron Standards 2 connected by cross bars 1 and preferably formed integral therewith, a

work table '3 being supported onthe upper zontal member thereof. A driving shaft 6' is mounted in bearings carried by the upright member of the arm 4 and extends into said arm being provided on its inner end with a bevel gear 7 and on its outer end with a driving wheel 8, which latter projects outside the arm 4 andwhereby'motion is imparted to the shaft 6 from any suitable source (not shown).

A vertical cam shaft 9 extends into the hollow upright member of the arm 4 and passes through the table 3 vertically across the supporting structure and is mounted at its lower end in a suitable bearing 10 car ried by the base plate 1. This cam shaft 9 has a bevel gear 11 fixed'thereto in position to mesh with the gear 7 on the driving shaft 6 and by means of which rotary motion is shaft. This cam shaft 9 has keyed thereto a plurality of cams for actuating the various mechanisms of the machine as will be hereinafter more fully described.

Needle operating mechanism...

The machine embodying theseimprovements has a needle 12 which is designed to carry the thread T which is supplied in lengths suflicient to form one buttonhole only. This needleis alternately transferred from one needle bar 13 to the other, two of which are employed and are adapted to move toward and away from each other as will be presently described. The needle bars are mounted in similarly constructed rocking or vibrating frames 14 which are exactly alike and hence one only will be described. Each needle bar frame 14 .is connected at one side to the head of each bracket arm of the machine by pivots 15 and 16 which are preferably cone-pointed screws tapped into said bracket arm so that any tion of the needle bar frame. The free arm 20 of the bell crank carries a roller 21 which operates in a cam groove 22 in a needle os-I cillating cam 23 fixed to the upper end of the cam shaft 9 by means of which the neces sary rocking or vibrating motion is imparted to the needle bar frame 14. As the cam shaft 9 rotatesthe form of thecam groove 22 is such that the bell crank 18 will receive an intermittent rocking motion which will be communicated through the connecting rod 17 to the needle bar frame 14 which turning on its pivots will be levers 26 and 27 are mounted within the rocked, carrying with it the needle bar 13.

The connecting rod 17 is preferably equipped with a turnbuckle 24 for varying the length of said rod.

The needle bars receive their vertical motion from a barrel cam 25 fixed to the cam shaft 9, said cam being here shown mounted on the lower end of said shaft. Levers 26 and 27 are fulcrumed at their rear ends to the horizontally disposed members of the "bracket arms of the machine and the front ends thereof are connected by links 28 with laterally extending ears 29 carried by blocks 30 mounted on the needle bars 13. These horizontal bracket arms oftlie machine and tate the reception of the needle.

the fulcrums' 32 and 32 thereof extend through one side wall of said bracket arms as is shown clearly in Figs. 3,5 and 6, bear- 'said bracket arms to support said leverfulimparted from the driving shaft to the cam crums.

Fixedto the outer end of the fulcrum 32 outside the bracket arm is a rearwardly extending lever arm 33 which projects in a direct-ion opposite to the lever 26 forming an offset continuation of said lever and to which'the upper endof a pitman 34 is connected. An arm 35 extends forwardly from the fulcrum 32 of the lever 27 (see Fig. 5)

andis connected at its front end with the lower end of pitman 34. Another arm 36 extends rearwardly from said fulcrum 32 of the lever 27 and is offset inwardly and pro- Vided at its free end with a roller 37, working in the "cam groove 25 of the cam 25 carried by the lower end of the cam shaft 9 as is shown clearly in Figs. 2 and 5. The pitman*34 is preferably made in sections connected by a turn buckle 38to provide for varying the length thereof.

It will thus be seen that when motion is imparted to the cam 25 from the driving shaft 6 the roller 37 engaged with the groove 25" thereof will be operated by the cam shape of said groove whereby the lever 27 will be reciprocated vertically and through the pitman 34 will transmit said movement to the lever 26 so that the front ends of both of saidlev'ers will besimultaneously moved toward oraway from eachot-her for bringing the needle gripping jaws together to provide for the transfer ofthe needle from one needle bar to the other in a manner hereinafter to be more fully described.

Needle transferring mechanism; Mounted onthe inner end ofeach needle bar 13 is a needle 'ri 3111 and releasin b b Extending longitudinally from the inner end of the upper needle bar 13 are two laterally spaced apertured ears" 39 and 40 between which the needle gripping jaws 41 and 42' are mounted and which are adapted to movelaterally toward and away from each other to grip or release the needle. These jaws 41 and 42 are constructed as shown in Figs. '12 and 13 having rectilinear longitudinally grooved opposed coacting meeting". edges '43 and44 between which theneedle12is designedto begripped and held when the jaws are closed. The grooves in these jaws are preferably flared at'their lower ends as shown at 43 and 4-4 to facili- These jaws have laterally extending longitudinally slotted arm sf45 and 46 attheir upper ends, the arm offjaw 42 being-offset outwardly to provide for its overlapping engagement with the arm of jaw 41 when the jaws are assembled as shown in Fig. 9. The outer edges of these jaws diverge from their front toward their rear ends and are provided on one face with laterally extending lips 17 and as designed to slide in upwardly diverging grooves 19 and 50 formed in One side member of a housing 51 carried by the needle bar and mounted to slide thereon and by means of which the opening and closing of the jaws is controlled.

An annular shoulder 52 is formed at the base of the cars 39 and 10 and a coiled spring 53 encircles the needle bar 13 and bears at one end on said shoulder 52 and at its other end against the inner or upper end of the housing 51 whereby said housing is nor-- mally held in retracted-position as shown in Figs. 8 and 11 and when in this position the aws 4:1 and 42 are, held. in closed gripping relation. As shown this housing 51 is composed of two separable members 5 1 and 55 which are secured together by suitable fastening screws 56 which also secure in position a cover plate 57 mounted over the front face of the housing to protect the interior thereof from dust and dirt. This housing is preferably keyed to the needle bar 13 as shown in Fig. 14 and is made hollow throughout a portion of its length to receive the ear carrying end of the needle bar and the coil spring 53 mounted thereon as is shown clearly in Figs. 8, 9 and 11. From the above description it will be obvious that when the housing is reciprocated on the needle bar 13 that the engagement of the diverging grooves 419 and 50 thereof with the lips 47 and 18 of the needle jaws will operate to open and close said jaws, the jaws being opened when the housing is depressed into the position shown in Fig. 9 and closed when it is raised as shown in Fig. 8.

The means for reciprocating this housing 51 is shown in the form of a bell crank 58 which is fulcrumed in a bracket 59 carried by the needle bar 13 and secured thereto by a set screw 60. This bell crank 58 has the free end of its short arm which extends laterally, bifurcated to straddle the housing 51 and the furcations thereof are provided with downturned hooks 61 and 62 which engage laterally extending studs 63 carried by the upper end of the housing 51 at opposite sides thereof as is shown clearly in Figs. 7 to let. The long arm 64: of the bell crank 58 extends upwardly and is provided at its free end with. a roller 65 which continuously engages one end of a lever 66. This lever 66 extends into the head 5 of the machine arm 1- and is there secured to a horizontally disposed shaft 67, an opening being provided in said head to provide access to the attachment of said lever 66 with 65 said shaft as is shown clearly in Fig. 1.

This shaft 67 is rotatably mounted in suitable bearings on one side of the machine bracket l and is provided at its rear end with an inwardly and laterally extending arm 68 which passes into the upright member of said arm 1 and carries at its free end a roller 69 which operates in a cam groove formed in the periphery of a cam 70 fixed to the cam shaft 9 as is shown clearly in Figs. 1, 2 and 6. Thecam groove in the cam 70 is so shaped and the movement of the canris so timed as to move the depending lever 66 inward of predetermined in tervals against the roller 65 of the bell crank 58 therebv causing the short hook carrying arm thereof to move downwardly exerting pressure on the housing 51 against the tension of its spring 53, thus opening the needle gripping jaws for releasing the needle which operation occurs when the needle is to be transferred from the upper needle bar to the lower. It is understood that the above described mechanism is duplicated below the work table 3 and that when the gripping jaws above the table open, the lower gripping jaws are simultaneously opened to receive the needle and closed when the needle bars move away from each other.

The needle 12 makes a stroke and has a rest period at each extremity, and in a cycle of operation of the machine the needle reeiprocates twice.

The upper needle oscillating cam 23 and the reciprocating cam 25 control the needle bar frame 1-1: and cause it to more out and back a predetermined distance.

Referring to the lower needle bar and 1 chuck, when the needle bar rises at the beginning of a cycle the chuck begins to open and is completely open when the needle bar has come to rest. It is to be noted that the eye of the needle is near its lower end and is positioned in the lower chuck when it clamps the needle.

Considering the upper needle bar and chuck, as the needle bar descends at the beginning of a cycle, the chuck is completely opened before the needle bar comes torest and it starts to close before the needle bar comes to rest, and is completely closed after the needle bar comes to rest. The length of time the chuck lever is acting upon the needle chuck should be kept as low as pos sible so as to keep down the side thrust on the needle bar.

Stitch owning Mechanism.

The stitch forming mechanism employed herein is similar to that shown in my copending application above referred to, the position of the loopers being changed and the operating mechanism therefor altered and'controlled by the cam shaft 9.

The peculiar construction and arrangeend 81' of an actuating lever 82 and con ment of the stitch forming loopers is shown in'Figs. 16 to 22.

This stitch forming mechanism is shown mounted on a bracket 71 secured to and depending from the lower face ofthe table 8 and having a lateral extension 72 with longitudinally spaced vertical bearings 73 and 74 through which extend pintlcs 7 5 and 76 to the lower ends of which are secured links 77 and 78. These links have a slot and ninconnection 79 at their inner endsforming a toggle like joint. The link 78 is pivoted intermediately of its ends and isnrovided on its free outer end with aroller 80 which is disposed in the forked trolled by means to be described.

Two arms 83 and 84 are fixed to the'upper ends of the pintles 7 5 and 76 and are de signed to be openedand closed on the opening and closing of the links 77 and 78 for a purpose to be described. These arms 83 and 84 are provided attheir free ends with eyes 85 and 86 respectively which are closed by spring tongues 87 and 88 secured at one end to said arms and at the inner side of said eyes and with their free ends extending outwardly and closing the eyes at the terminals of these arms said terminals being here shown hook-shaped or diverging away from each other and the arms are so mounted that when in closed position, the free end of one overlaps the free end of the otherto position the'eyes thereof in vertical alinement.

A triangular plate 88 is provided at one end with an apertured arm 89 and is secured to the upper face of the arm 83 being pivotally connected therewith as is shown clearly in Figs. 16 and 17. This plate 88 is in the form of a scalene triangle and is provided with an eye 90 closed by a spring tongue 91. said eye being adapted to register with the eyes on the arms 83 and 84 when the loopers or jaws formed by the arms 83 and 84 and the plate 88are closed, the eyes of these three members beingiin vertical alinement for the passage of the needle as will be hereinafter more fully described A substantially right angular link 92 is pivoted at one end to the arm 84 at a point nearer the pivoted end of said arm and the other end of the link is pivotally connected with the plate 88 at a point ad jacent the eye thereof with the elbow or angle of the link extending inwardly, said link being so positioned. and proportioned that when the arms 83 and84 are open to their full extent as shown in Fig. 17 a triangular space will be formed between the three eyes of the arms and said plate. said eyes being designed to carry the thread which forms the stitch.

V The lever 82 is fulcrumed intermediately of its length on a stud 93 depending from the table 3 as is shown clearlyin'Figs. l and The rear end of this lever is curved laterally and provided with anupstanding 1oller9i on its terminal. positioned to engage the periphery of a cam 100 fixed to the cam shaft 9 and shown arranged below the table 8. This roller 94 is held in yielding engagement with the periphery of the cam 100 by means of a coiled spring 82' secured at one end to said lever 82 in advance of its fulcrum and at its other end to the supporting frame. The cam 100 is also provided on its lower face witha cam groove 100 for a purpose to be described.

From the above description it will be seen that on the turning of the cam shaft 9, the cam 22 will'be operated for opening and closing the needle bar frames 14 and the cam 100 will operate simultaneously for opening and closing the "stitch forming looper jaws so that when the frames 14 are swung open, the jaws formed by the arms and plates above described will be closed and vice versa. By this arrangement the jaws will be held in closed position with the eyes thereof in vertical alinement when the needle bar carrying frames are closed thereby positioning the needle in alinement with the eyes of said looper jaws to adapt it to passth'erethrough when forming the stitch, as is shown clearly in Figs. 2,16, 18, 28 and 29.

When the two needle bars move toward each other the needle 12 carrying the thread approaches and passes upwardly through the registering eyes of the jaws of the stitch forming mechanism, the swinging needle bar carrying frames 14 being in closed po sition'and the thread passes through said eyes and the needle is transferred from the lower to the upper bar as shown in Fig. 29. The continued turning of the shaft 9 causes the Wider portion of the cam 100 to engage the roller 94 and the lower portion 'of the cam 23 to engage the roller 21 connected with the needle bar carrying frames thereby opening the stitch forming jaws and moving the needle bar laterally to position the needle over the cloth C ready to be passed down therethrough into the position shown in Fig. 30. This opening of the jaws forms a triangular loop L in the thread ready for the passage of the needle therethrough. The loop carrying jawsand needle bar frames 14 remain in this po sition during thepassage of the needle through the cloth until after it has passed down through the triangular loop L formed between the eyes of the jaws as is shown in Fig. 31 when said needle is transferred to the lower needle bar. The continued turning of the'shaft 9 and the cams 23and100 carried thereby gradually closes the loop carrying jaws and the frames 14 thereby lowering the needle and positioning the 

